One Year after Savar Tragedy and the Garments Industry of Bangladesh

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The garments industry in Bangladesh has been expanded almost uninterruptedly since the late 1970s. The successful export oriented readymade garments (RMG) industry of Bangladesh has observed remarkable growth since its beginning late 1970s. Paradoxically, this flagship industry of Bangladeshi private entrepreneurial talent took roots through the first export consignment of shirts from Bangladesh made by state trading agency, the trading corporation of Bangladesh made by state trading agency, the destination was some east European countries. Subsequently, however, private entrepreneurs entered the industry and phenomenal growth took place in RMG exports in Bangladesh. Export of RMG increased from us dollar 40 thousand in 1978-79 to us 6.4 billion in 2004-05. The industry has also provided employment to nearly 2.8 million workers (BGMEA, 2009) most of them women drawn from the rural areas.

Explosive growth of RMG exports is of not inimitable to Bangladesh. The annual compound growth rate of RMG export industries Indonesia (31.2%) Mauritius (23.8%) Dominican Republic (21.1%) compares favorably with that of Bangladesh (81.3%) over the 1980- 87 periods. However while the initial conditions were favorable for export growth in the countries noted above; this was far from the truth in case our country. The ratio of the workers male: female was 9:11 and there age limit was 18 - 35 years. 90% of the workers are from helper to operators. Others are supervisors, technicians etc. Their education level is primary to secondary level where 57% workers are only able to write their names, 36% of the workers are living in the slums and others are in the match sift houses. Only 62% workers are sending their children to school.

The garments workers are earning their breads by very hard labor. They render to the owners from the dawn to midnight. Sometimes they have to work even for more than 24 hours without rest (they get breaks for their snacks, which are arranged by the authority) during in the emergency shipment. Of course they are still ill paid, notwithstanding the different labor revolution for various times. In 2006 there was a huge movement in the garments industry where a lot of factories were gutted, vandalized the infrastructures for their various points of demand. The fast point demand was to increase the minimum salary in the entry level at least 3 thousand taka per month. Later govt. had fixed that 2200/- tk. per month but later the BGMEA fixed it only tk. 1667 (one thousand sixty seven) per month by a trilateral agreement (BGMEA-Bangladesh govt. and labor union of garments workers) which is final to concluding the movement so far.

During a fieldwork, working with the questionnaire it was randomly found by the visitors that some workers are not getting this amount also from the factory owners. They have no holidays and even sometimes they are forced to work in the holidays. On occasion, the owners pay their salary after a month’s delay by showing different excuses. Moreover, reduction of wages, attendances are in the common practices in the garments floor. The garments workers have no job security yet. Anytime without any reason they may be suspend, demotion, transferred even sacked from the company. Even though there is a clause in the service rule that the sacked employee should get at least one month salary from the company if he/she is sacked from the company without any cause (surplus, lack of work) but in fact, the due salary is not given sometimes. Very few companies abide by the rules of govt. and BGMEA. Each company has its own rules as all of the garments workers are ill fed and ill clad. Hardly can they spend for their accommodation after purchasing their food staffs. They can’t be a chooser rather live in an area only to stay alive. In our field work, we have found that most of the garments workers are live in the rented slums; the room is 10 feet x 12 feet, roofing by iron sheet. Common unhygienic bath, kitchen for 8 – 10 family, shortage of water, crude electricity line etc. monthly rent each of the room is tk. 1800.

The garments workers are in low profile regarding the academic education. In the fieldwork most of the female workers only can write their names and address, most of them left the school after primary education. Few of them have gone to class viii. Most of the guardians of the garments workers are poor. They prefer to thing job is better than education. Most of the guardians are also illiterate. They think female education will not bear a good result to their family rather working in the garments factory will bring some money which will help them to run the family smoothly. Only 87% of garments workers send their wards to school while other 13% are showing different causes that why could not send their children to school. 73% are in the primary level, 19% are in the high school and only 8% have crossed the S.S.C and none was found H.S.C passed above.



As a human being we must need amusement in our leisure time, to refresh the mind. In fact, work productivity is ultimate goal. But hardly the garments worker can manage time to have the amusement even in the holidays they have to work sometimes. Recently, a collapse of a cracked building where there was 5 RMG garments has caused nearly 1100 deaths and most of them were female workers. The clients of these garments are mostly from western countries. Due to the high demand, the owners forced the laborers to work because they had to export urgently. Once again, the workers were trapped and they could not escape death because of the lack of emergency exits.

Bangladesh, which focuses on the low cost labor to attract the international companies, is today the 2nd largest exporter of RMG products in the world but this strategy is based on a short-term view et is not aware of the social and environmental costs. What is needed is a long-term vision to invest in the developments of buildings & managerial competences. The owners & the Govt. should also be entitled to take their share of responsibility. The Govt. should investigate the cause of accidents and prosecute those whose negligence is the cause of the death of workers. They should also be engaged in a national inspection program to make sure the factory buildings meet the safety requirements. For their parts, the owners should also immediately examine the security issues of their garments, perform a investigation on their factory buildings, cooperate with the unions to train the workers of security policies and should also allow the workers to voice their concerns. Bangladesh is proud of being the 2nd largest exporter of RMG products in the world. We want this country to enhance its pride by assuring the security of factory workers.

Wahid Murad

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